Zouk Mosbeh

If you ever contemplate the history of Zouk Mosbeh, you are bound to sense how stepped this ancient town is in culture and civilization, already stretching back thousands of years as it crosses the threshold of the third millennium.

Thanks to its location at the foot of the mountains, this historic town lies open to the world. It has an air of peace due to its cultivated land and varied landscape and scenery. It has maintained its traditions thanks to its resistance to invaders desecrating its land and, one of them being this quest for knowledge due to its Phoenician past and its proximity to Jbeil.
This is why it comprises many churches, monasteries and church properties, which have marked the people with their rituals, visions and goals.
Maybe, this is also why it has opened its doors to the newcomers surging into it and turning it into a city…

Its name: according to the scholar Anis Freiha, the name of Zouk Mosbeh has three possible connotations:

1- From the Aramaic DAOUQUO meaning guard, keeper and protector.
2- From the Aramaic SHOUKO meaning market.
3- From the word DOUK meaning place, area and location.

But Father Lammens considers that the name is of Turkish origin while other historians believe that the word zouk is of Turkmenian origin meaning 'tribal colony'. The latter explanation is closer to the historical fact. As for the word mosbeh, it is a proper noun and an attribute.

Location: Zouk Mosbeh is an ancient town standing on four hills at an altitude of 250 meters in the southern coastal area of Keserwan; it stretches over an area of 4,258,499 square meters.

Boundaries: to the west the Mediterranean, to the south Nahr El Kalb (Dog River), which separates it from Zouk Al Khrab (Dbayeh), to the east Jeita and Aintoura and to the north Zouk Mikael.

Characteristics:

- A sea-bound plain (Al Wata), which stretches from Nahr El Kalb in the south to Zouk Mikael in the north. This plain that was famous for its agricultural nature transformed from the early 70's into a region of touristic resorts.
- A river-bound plain where agriculture still dominates.
- Two industrial zones (Ghlan and Al Shawyeh) that are among the chief industrial centers in Lebanon.
- Residential areas that have grown astronomically.

In Pre-historic Times

It is only natural that the banks of Nahr El Kalb should have provided homes for the Stone-Age man due to the abundance of water and naturally fortified locations. The German scientist Zumofen affirmed that the grottos and caves of Nahr El Kalb were inhabited in the Paleonthological Age, that is to say two hundred thousand years ago.

In Ancient Times

1- The engraving of Nebuchadnessar: on the rocks of Nahr El Kalb, there are twenty historical engravings, which form a unique open-air museum. Among these inscriptions is one left by the Babylo-Chaldean invader Nebuchadnessar (605 B.C. - 562 B.C.).
2- The Phoenician Tomb: this is situated near Christ the King on the borders of the Valley of Nahr El Kalb and is a typical example of the tombs that were built by rich Phoenicians. Its walls enclose two sarcophaguses.
3- Grotto of Louaizé: an ancient well-shaped tomb was discovered in the courtyard of Notre Dame of Louaizé School in 1966 (where the Shrine of the Virgin currently stands). Metallic ware, swords and potter ware were also found in it and most of these items are now kept at the Monastery of Louaizé.
4- Khara'eb Al Moulook Grotto: this is now a shrine dedicated to the Virgin as Lady of the Universe and it is situated in the courtyard of Christ the King Monastery. When the venerable Father Yaacoub knew of this shrine, he shouted: "This is for the Queen!"
5- Grotto of Ghlan: this was an underground cemetery, which is situated in the current Christ the King Medical Center. It is known as the Jewish Tomb.
6- The Sarcophagus of Rabbaya: it was formarly situated on the side of the road between upper Zouk Mosbeh and Haklet Al Dahab (currently known as Adonis). It is now located in Rayfoun Park (?).
7- Trèbe: this is currently situated in Al Ramiyeh area between Qayouz and Al Aqba. In the early 50's , quantities of human bones were found upon the paving of Al Aqba road and this explains the name Al Jabbanah or the Tomb.

In Medieval Times

Before 1291 A.D., there is no clear history of Zouk Mosbeh. It did not even bear the same name; this name was bestowed upon it after it had been inhabited by the Turkmenians.

After the Mamluks destroyed Keserwan, the Turkmenian Assaf clan settled in the Zouks: Zouk Al Amariyeh (currently Amaret Chalhoub), Zouk Mosbeh, and Zouk Mikael. Each Zouk, or military base, contained 300 soldiers who moved monthly between each base. The base of Zouk, in Zouk Mosbeh, was in the Al Kharaeb or Khara'eb Al Moulook area that was situated in the place of the current Monastery of Christ the King. As for the housing of the soldiers' families, this was located in what is known today as Haï Al Saydeh (the Quartier of Our Lady).

In Modern and Contemporary Times

In the battle of Marj Dabek in 1516 that was crowned by the victory of the Ottomans over the Mamluks, the Assaf family sided with the Ottomans and Sultan Selim Khan I appointed them as walis (governors) over Keserwan.

In that era, the Maronites began to emigrate specifically from the region of Jbeil to live in Keserwan. Zouk Mosbeh received families from Haqel, Jaj, Ghalboon and other villages and in 1701became one of the largest cities in Keserwan.

Zouk Mosbeh witnessed a period of great prosperity between the early 17th century and mid-18th century.

Al Hattouni said: "As for Zouk Mosbeh, it was up to the middle of the past generation (18th century) the largest village in Keserwan, containing around one thousand houses and famous for its stores and inhabitants. It enclosed a large number of stores that attracted people who tended to their affairs and bought their supplies. Then, things started deteriorating until it became (end of the 19th century) one of the small villages with around one hundred house, and nothing remained of its stores but ruins …"

The prosperity of Zouk Mosbeh can be attributed to its proximity to Beirut, and to the accessibility of irrigation water in Wata Nahr El Kalb (the arcaded canal was built in 1706 by Prince Haydar Chehab.)

Zouk Mosbeh was famous for its fine wine. Tannous Al Chidiac said: "…and among the larger villages of Keserwan, (is) Zouk Mosbeh, and its wine, which is the finest in Lebanon".

Prince Bashir II did not find anyone more skilled than the people of Zouk Mosbeh to teach the Egyptians the art of making silk in response to the request of the khedive of Egypt (Al Hattouni, Prince Haidar Chehab).

The cultivation of olives did not dominate agricultural activity in Zouk Mosbeh until the beginning of the 20th century.

In addition to this, some rich and enterprising families played a great role in promoting local prosperity, starting from the end of the 16th century and continuing into the beginning of the 19th century. The most important of these families were Haqlani, Al Zand, Aziz, Saadeh and later Al Tabeeb and Chehab princes and El Khazen and Hbeich sheikhs, followed by Awkar, Srour, Abou Haidar, Boueiz, Saati and others.

In 1820, after the inhabitants of Jbeil refused to pay the despotic "miri" to Prince Basheer, the latter marched on Jbeil to suppress the mutiny and bring about order…and he agreed with the sheikhs of the Shouf, his allies, to meet at Nahr El Kalb. "The sheikhs crossed the river with their men and plundered the Monastery of Louizeh and Zouk Mosbeh." "…Prince Salman passed through Zouk Mosbeh and found it devastated and in ruins…"Due to these events, emigration to neighboring villages increased; and, at the end of World War I the inhabitants of Zouk Mosbeh found that less than one family remained in the village. Then, the emigration to the new lands began, especially Brazil and Mexico, and Mosbeh became another forgotten village.

Zouk Mosbeh flourished again in the mid 20th century.1950, water reached the houses. In 1955 electricity was provided. In 1957 a road to Jeita Grotto was cut through the town. In 1954 the municipality was established. In 1956 the first industrial plant was built. In 1962, the Ecoshare project allocated two large industrial zones to the town. In 1957 Adonis housing project was launched…

As for commerce, it went on a par with the economic growth and increase in population. Now, there are a many luxurious marine tourist resorts, hotels, parks, restaurants, theaters, media and marketing companies, clinics, pharmacies, dispensaries, churches, social establishments, religious and civic organizations, printing presses, libraries, publishing houses, monasteries, shrines, schools, universities, etc…

Spiritual Landmarks

Our Lady of the Rosary is the oldest parish church in Zouk Mosbeh. Its construction began in 1701 and ended in 1703-early 1704. The building is of considerable size considering the date of its construction. It looks like a fortress and it was built according to the architecture that distinguished the Maronite churches from the 11th century until the beginning of the 20th century. The church comprises rare oil paintings, relics from the Cross and some saints, rich embroideries, manuscripts and old books.

The Saint Elijah: this parish church was consecrated by Patriarch Estphan Doueihy in 1675; its current building dates back to 1912/1913.

The church of Saint John the Baptist: situated in Nahr El Kalb. It dates back to 1923.

The church of Saint Anthony (Antonios): situated in Adonis. It dates back to 1963.

The church of Saint Charbel: situated in Adonis. It dates back to the early 80's.

The Monastery of Notre Dame of Louiaze was built by Sheikh Salhab Al Haqlani in 1682 from his private money and on his private land. He endowed it with much land and property.

In 1736 it hosted the famous Lebanese Synod, which is considered to be the most important synod in the history of the Maronites. Since the monastery was not able to receive all the participants (they were over one hundred), "the Haqlani family welcomed a large number of them in their houses."

The monastery is also the place where the Order keeps the remains of its founder Abdallah Kra'lee, who died on January 6, 1742 and was buried in the church Our Lady of the Rosary.

It has also been the headquarters of the Lebanese Order since 1725. After the split that took place in the Order between Aleppine and Baladite in 1768 (officially in 1710), the monastery became the general headquarters of the Aleppine Order, which became known in 1968 as the Mariamite Maronite Order.

On September 1, 1818, the monastery hosted another important Maronite Synod, known as the Louaizeh Synod.

The Monastery of Louaizeh includes an extensive library that contains old, rare and valuable manuscripts and books, in addition to oil paintings, documents, sacred vessels and church vestments.

Christ the King Home for the Elderly was founded by Father Yacoub Haddad, the founder of the Nuns of the Cross, and inaugurated at the end of 1952, it is a home for the elderly, especially members of the clergy.

Educational Landmarks

The history of education in Zouk Mosbeh began in 1682 the date of the construction of the Monastery of Notre Dame of Louaizeh by its founder and principal owner Salhab Bin Faraj Mjahid Bin Ibrahim Al Haqlani from Zouk Mosbeh.

Sheik Salhab (who became known as Pastor Ighnatios after his ordination) said in a handwritten manuscript that before the completion of the construction of the Monastery of Louaizeh, he "vowed to himself" that this monastery would be a school to educate children…He even brought in a monk from the Monastery of Tameesh to begin teaching the children. In this way, his vision foreshadowed by 54 years the decisions of the Lebanese Synod (1736) in relation to education. This Synod had ordered, "Schools shall be built in monasteries to educate the young". Then, Jabbour Al Tabeeb offered his land in 1789 for the construction of a school.

The Public School was built in 1951. In 1973, the municipality allocated to it approximately 5500 m2 of land.

The Lycée de Ville School is situated in Adonis. It was established in 1995.

Notre Dame of Louaize School was established by the Maronite Mariamite Order in the 30's to educate the clergy. In 1960, it opened its doors to the public. It kept on expanding until it now offers education in both the French and English curricula to around 4500 students.

As for Notre Dame University - Louaize, the "Louaize Center for Higher Education" was established in 1978 to be a basis for the establishment of an independent university. The Maronite Mariamite Order was officially authorized to establish this university on August 14, 1987. The university follows the American curriculum and offers all the scientific and modern specializations that meet the needs of the work markets. The foundation stone for the new camps was laid on November 19, 1994. Today, it has an enrollment of more than 3500 students.